{"id":1774,"date":"2006-01-23T10:54:50","date_gmt":"2006-01-23T09:54:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/?p=1774"},"modified":"2018-03-06T19:55:00","modified_gmt":"2018-03-06T18:55:00","slug":"stage-cascade-de-glace-avec-lucpa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/2006\/01\/stage-cascade-de-glace-avec-lucpa\/","title":{"rendered":"Stage cascade de glace avec l&#8217;UCPA"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Stage d&#8217;une semaine de cascade de glace via l&#8217;UCPA. Outre les deux jours de formation en cascade \u00e9cole, nous r\u00e9alisons:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/55533\/fr\/ceillac-y-de-droite\">Ceillac: <strong>Y de droite<\/strong> (II 3+. 250m)<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/53982\/fr\/ceillac-les-formes-du-chaos\">Ceillac: <strong>Les Formes du Chaos<\/strong> (III 4. 250m)<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Ceillac: ??? 4+<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Je suis venu pour d\u00e9couvrir et apprendre cette discipline, une id\u00e9e de mon ami Vincent avec qui j&#8217;ai commenc\u00e9 l&#8217;alpinisme et qui a d\u00e9j\u00e0 un stage \u00e0 son actif.<\/p>\n<p>Ce stage se d\u00e9roule en petit groupe: quatre \u00e9l\u00e8ves pour un guide. Cela facilitera l&#8217;apprentissage, avec un guide r\u00e9solument orient\u00e9 sur l&#8217;apprentissage avec p\u00e9dagogie !<\/p>\n<h1>Les deux premiers jours<\/h1>\n<p>Nous commen\u00e7ons par deux jours de formation sur une cascade de glace synth\u00e9tique. Des tuyaux d&#8217;eau semblent entretenir la structure qui se tient presque au sein du village !<\/p>\n<p>Tout y passe depuis le commencement: positionnement et grimpe, pose de broches, confection de relais, lunules, etc.<\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0426-1.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060123-0426-1.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060123-0426-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6478 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0426-1-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060123-0426-1.jpg\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0650-6.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060123-0650-6.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060123-0650-6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6479 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0650-6-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060123-0650-6.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0804-14.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060123-0804-14.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060123-0804-14.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6480 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060123-0804-14-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060123-0804-14.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Jour 3<\/h1>\n<p>Nous attaquons notre premi\u00e8re cascade, j&#8217;ai nomm\u00e9 : <a href=\"http:\/\/www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/55533\/fr\/ceillac-y-de-droite\">Ceillac: <strong>Y de droite<\/strong> (II 3+. 250m)<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0630-37.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060125-0630-37.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060125-0630-37.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6481 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0630-37-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060125-0630-37.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0859-53.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060125-0859-53.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060125-0859-53.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6482 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0859-53-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060125-0859-53.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0913-58.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060125-0913-58.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060125-0913-58.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6483 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-0913-58-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060125-0913-58.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-1046-69.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060125-1046-69.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060125-1046-69.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6484 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060125-1046-69-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060125-1046-69.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Jour 4<\/h1>\n<p><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">Le nom d&#8217;une cascade \u00e0 retrouver &#8230;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0353-75.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060126-0353-75.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060126-0353-75.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6485 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0353-75-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060126-0353-75.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0359-77.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060126-0359-77.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060126-0359-77.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6486 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0359-77-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060126-0359-77.jpg\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0603-82.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060126-0603-82.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060126-0603-82.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6487 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0603-82-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060126-0603-82.jpg\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0825-98.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060126-0825-98.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060126-0825-98.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6488 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060126-0825-98-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060126-0825-98.jpg\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Jour 5<\/h1>\n<p>L&#8217;amie de Jean-Marc notre guide nous rejoint, nous formons ainsi trois cord\u00e9es pour attaquer la plus belle de ce s\u00e9jour:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/53982\/fr\/ceillac-les-formes-du-chaos\">Ceillac: <strong>Les Formes du Chaos<\/strong> (III 4. 250m)<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0253-130.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0253-130.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060127-0253-130.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6490 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0253-130-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060127-0253-130.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0440-140.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0440-140.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060127-0440-140.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6491 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0440-140-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060127-0440-140.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_6492\" style=\"width: 970px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0556-146.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0556-146.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac\" title=\"20060127-0556-146.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-6492\" class=\"wp-image-6492 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0556-146-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-6492\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_6493\" style=\"width: 550px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0708-161.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0708-161.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac\" title=\"20060127-0708-161.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-6493\" class=\"wp-image-6493 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0708-161-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-6493\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dans les Formes du chaos, Ceillac<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0915-164.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0915-164.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060127-0915-164.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6494 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0915-164-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060127-0915-164.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0943-174.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-0943-174.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060127-0943-174.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6495 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-0943-174-960x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060127-0943-174.jpg\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a  href=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-1102-185.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-0\" data-rl_title=\"20060127-1102-185.jpg\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"20060127-1102-185.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-6496 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/20060127-1102-185-540x720.jpg\" alt=\"20060127-1102-185.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"720\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Plan de situation<\/h1>\n\t\t<div id=\"maps-marker-pro-aebac9ba\" class=\"maps-marker-pro\" style=\"width: 100%;\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"mmp-map-wrap-aebac9ba\" class=\"mmp-map-wrap\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div id=\"mmp-map-aebac9ba\" class=\"mmp-map\" style=\"height: 720px;\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n<h1>Le bilan<\/h1>\n<p>Sur ce stage, mon objectif prioritaire \u00e9tait l&#8217;apprentissage. J&#8217;avais quelques \u00e0 priori sur les guides et leur notion toute relative de la p\u00e9dagogie et leur envie de transmettre le savoir. Mais le fait que ce stage soit estampill\u00e9 UCPA un gage de qualit\u00e9 de ce point de vue. Et effectivement, j&#8217;ai \u00e9t\u00e9 combl\u00e9, c&#8217;\u00e9tait juste parfait.<\/p>\n<p>Sur d&#8217;autres sorties avec guide, je confirmerai par la suite ma crainte de tomber sur des guides dont l&#8217;unique objectif est de vous amener \u00e0 l&#8217;objectif, sans se pr\u00e9occuper de <strong>la mani\u00e8re d&#8217;y arriver<\/strong>. Ni sans transmettre, ni jamais mettre en position de leader.<\/p>\n<h1>Par la suite<\/h1>\n<p>J&#8217;ai repris contact avec notre guide Jean-Marc Genevois pour organiser une sortie avec lui. J&#8217;ai par la suite appris une bien triste nouvelle :(<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Un guide de haute montagne de Chamonix est mort samedi vers 13 heures dans un accident de cascade de glace \u00e0 l&#8217;Argenti\u00e8re-la-Bess\u00e9e. Jean-Marc Genevois, 43 ans, a fait une chute de 200 m\u00e8tres du haut de la cascade du &#8220;Baiser de Lune&#8221; situ\u00e9e dans le Vallon du Fournel. Il a \u00e9t\u00e9 tu\u00e9 sur le coup.<br \/>\nLe guide a \u00e9t\u00e9 entra\u00een\u00e9 par l&#8217;effondrement de la colonne de glace &#8211; un &#8220;cigare&#8221; de 40 ou 50 m\u00e8tres de haut &#8211; dont il faisait l&#8217;ascension. La victime n&#8217;avait plus que cinq m\u00e8tres \u00e0 grimper quand le &#8220;cigare&#8221; s&#8217;est d\u00e9croch\u00e9, provoquant un chaos de blocs de glace []<\/p>\n<p><em><br \/>\n<\/em>Sauv\u00e9 par la corde coup\u00e9e<br \/>\nLe guide de haute montagne ind\u00e9pendant \u00e9tait encord\u00e9 avec un ami, un Grenoblois de 25 ans, quand l&#8217;effondrement a eu lieu. Son compagnon de cord\u00e9e se trouvait \u00e0 un relais, au pied du cigare. Par chance, il n&#8217;a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 entra\u00een\u00e9 dans la chute car la corde a \u00e9t\u00e9 rompue par les tonnes de glace pr\u00e9cipit\u00e9es dans le vide. Plus ou moins prot\u00e9g\u00e9 par sa position, le jeune homme ne souffre que d&#8217;une fracture du nez, provoqu\u00e9e par un morceau de glace.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\">(c) Le dauphin\u00e9<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Stage d&#8217;une semaine de cascade de glace via l&#8217;UCPA. Outre les deux jours de formation en cascade \u00e9cole, nous r\u00e9alisons:<br \/>\n. Ceillac: Y de droite (II 3+. 250m)<br \/>\n. Ceillac: Les Formes du Chaos (III 4. 250m)<br \/>\n. Ceillac: ??? 4+<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6489,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[38,40],"tags":[3,450,681,511,12,121,84],"class_list":["post-1774","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-cascadedeglace","tag-alpinisme","tag-cascade-de-glace","tag-ceillac","tag-formation","tag-outdoor","tag-stage","tag-ucpa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1774","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1774"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1774\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6489"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1774"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1774"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.tomroc.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1774"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}